Fra Indi

INSPIRE 2025

when nature is welcoming and solitude means sharing

Can I start to tell the story of a solo expedition from the conclusions? Perhaps I can. It took almost twelve months of work to prepare INSPIRE. I imagined this expedition to be an old-style adventure: not too much organised, no real-time posts and stories on social networks during the two weeks which my dogs and I spent travelling 330 km across frozen lakes, mountains, forests and villages of two regions of Northern Sweden reaching the beginning of the wide territory called Sàpmi.

INSPIRE made me think about my relationship with solitude: a necessity for my spirit, but something that acquires meaning and fulfilment by sharing the experience. And this is probably why this expedition took place in the name of listening and welcoming. I become a wonderer and a nomad who in two occasions knocked at the door of two houses in two different villages. Even though I was a perfect stranger bundled up in my parka and my hat made of skins and fur, my dogs always eager to hit the trail but equally eager to rest, people did not hesitate to open their homes to me by offering hot water for me and the dogs, a stove, a bed, and the welcome of those simple yet real and lived-in domestic environments. I was not uncomfortable, neither they nor I: after a few exchanges of words in my not-always-fluent English, it was as if we had known each other forever. They were willing to know my story and that of my dogs: the reason behind INSPIRE, my desire to travel North with no specific destination and live the land.

Nature is welcoming by definition: it lends its expanses to lie down and rest, it offers shelter. Most of the people who live in the North whose lives are based and bond to nature, cannot be unwelcoming. I could experience this firsthand during INSPIRE. In a society progressively succumbing to the cornerstones of Civilisation – domination, possession, control – which drive human beings to a narcissistic selfishness (often disguised in pietism, respectability and “institutional,” philanthropic and rhetorical do-goodery), the hospitality learned from Mother Earth becomes the perfect example of spiritual beauty. This is the hospitality which my dogs and I found and received here by those who live following the rhythm of the seasons, in balance with the nature that surrounds them. I reflect on how the truest and most genuine values today are found in the simplicity of a life which is close to nature and still depends on it in many ways. Hospitality is found in the woods, in the small villages and certainly not in the big cities or among the “gurus” in suits and ties who roam around offices, palaces and rich institutions.

A solo expedition acquires even more meaning if opportunities for exchange, meeting, sharing are created along the way. This is a lesson I do not want to forget.

The first two days of INSPIRE were magnificent and challenging at the same time: six hours of sledding each, starting early in the morning with not so cold temperatures (the minimum at night and in the morning was around -15°C. Two challenging days because the young males Askan and Den were still quite distracted by Tayen’s heat.

Throughout the expedition, there were only few days when the temperature dropped below -20°, and unfortunately it was always very humid. The dry cold typical of these latitudes gave way to humidity this year and quickly proved to be a tough rival as I suffer a lot from it and so do the dogs. Humidity increases the perception of cold penetrating the body until you feel it in your bones and leaves you with a constant wet feeling despite keep moving. Den, Askan and Tayen don’t have a thick undercoat so I preferred to make them sleep with coats.

The snow has been synonymous for the unpredictability of existence and the futility of making rigid schedules: compact and fluffy, icy and crumbly, knee-deep and feet-wetting. Therefore, the only thing I could do was to rely on the skills of my dogs, especially when the trail ahead disappeared completely and gave way to an expanse of fresh snow. In particular, after sliding down a pine forest we reached a lake to cross with no visible trail to follow. I looked at Adi and said “ok, you take care of this now, we need to reach the other side”. My little leader, with Tayen on his side, broke trail for us. This was just one of the many times I was thrilled by my dogs’ ability to cope with complex or unexpected stretches: sections of trails made cramped by the presence of branches; the ice on the lakes that – on the last day of the expedition – was starting to melt causing us to practically run into the water; the fresh snow on the mountains after snowfalls; the runs in the wind and with the wind. Throughout the expedition I always knew I could count on my companions: Adi, Tayen, Askan, Vittra, Den, Dolly, Ciuk, Indi e Tulku. During the days on the sled, knowing that in the evening we would reach a three-sided log cabin and the possibility of lighting a fire was a thought that restored strength and energy. And then, the surprise of crossing some villages and meeting the people who live there was a precious gift. Stop by again on the way back to visit the families I had met was even better, because I could tell them what I had seen and experienced in the previous days. As we said goodbye for the last time, we wished to stay in touch.

INSPIRE was an emotionally intense expedition, full of moments when I was truly moved, even by the simple possibility to use a stove or catching a glimpse of a red-colored northern lights camping on top of a mountain.

However, this expedition marks the end of a chapter. In fact, it was Indi and Ciuk’s last expedition. With INSPIRE, they end the sleddog activity, and they will enjoy a second phase of a sled dog’s life: they become home dogs. There will be various activities for them: nice walks, couch time, and why not bed time.

Especially in the last few days, Indi e Ciuk suffered more than the others from physical and mental fatigue, but although they reduced their towing effectiveness, they never stopped trotting and showed that they still had a lot of heart to go on. My journey in the world of sled dogs and mushing began the day Indi came into my life. I owe a lot to him, and now that he is getting older, I imagine an equally exciting and active life for him despite being away from sled. What to say about the other dogs? Dolly has been hardworking both in team and wheel positions; Tulku, a little tractor who was always enthusiastic and never felt the blow of pulling in wheel from the beginning to the end (the initial sled weight plus me was around 180 kg); Den is my good trotting pace dog either in team or wheel, either spare or paired; Askan and Vittra, young and resourceful made our days (and nights) cheerful. Despite their young age, they never showed any sign of mental breakdown keeping their pace regular, even if Vittra was more interested in the wild birds coming out of the bush. Askan also took the lead with Adi at some occasions and did very well. Tayen was just great as an experienced co-leader. And what about Adi? My lead dog who I wish would never grow old. He is the kind of dog who make you feel secure in time of trouble, and transmits tranquility as I know I can count on him. He stayed in lead for two weeks, always focused, always on the ball. My thanks go to him as he guided us better than I could hope.

INSPIRE was as I imagined it would be: guided by the compass point North, and nothing else organised. It was a way to really experience these places without any kind of filters and preconceptions, especially the technological ones. Every day alleged explorers set off on styled expeditions with a huge burden of technology to think about and the anxiety about documenting live on social media, gizmos to ensure continuous internet connections because “woe to miss a day of posts and stories” or because tracking one’s location must be instantaneous and/or provable. All of this is actually the end of adventure. An adventure made up of feelings, emotions, amazement at the unexpected and the acceptance of limits. Yes, INSPIRE and the silent nature which hosted our footsteps and the glide of our sled reaffirmed this basic concept: limits are not to be crossed, not even for the glory of an adventure, expedition or supposed accomplishment. Limits define who we are at the core of our being and tell the story of the beauty of our diversity; the attempt to overcome them means not recognizing who we are, what we are, and what our place in the world is; it means not having the maturity and the consciousness to accept ourselves. As I live and observe nature and her inhabitants, I realize how each creature knows its own limitations and goes along with them in balance with Mother Earth. INSPIRE inspired me and, above all, I allowed myself to be inspired, that is I let the impressions to penetrate me deeply and enrich me. I will treasure it and avoid mistakes made in the past that certainly do not belong to my soul.

During our way back, the weather began a drastic change with a sudden rise in temperatures to a maximum of 5° and a minimum that did not fall below -3°. These conditions prompted me to consider a rapid return, earlier than I had planned. The confirmation of this choice came with the rain: the snow began “letting up” even to the point of melting. 25 cm of snow disappeared overnight and the lakes got covered by a layer of fresh water. Thus, we immediately headed to Nicole and Niklas’s home, which I had elected as our base camp for preparations in the twenty days prior to the departure for INSPIRE. On the last day, we travelled about 65 km in one go to get there, avoiding the risk of catching more rain and worried about the conditions of the snow and ice getting worse. Even in this last effort, the dogs lead by Adi and Askan demonstrated all their heart and exceptional fortitude. After crossing the last lake, a few kilometers from the end of our exploration, I stopped the sled and hugged and thanked every single dog, not only for the exciting experience, but for the wonderful life they give me every day. Their unconditional friendship brightens even my darkest days.

INSPIRE has been solitude, adventure, encounter, hospitality. It was the visceral and spiritual discovery of a vast land with its people and landscape. INSPIRE taught me to be a wanderer, and during the many hours I spent sledding, more than once these scattered lines from a Franco Battiato’s song came to my mind: “Nomads who seek the corners of tranquility in the northern fogs and the tumults of civilizations…As a foreigner I feel no bonds of feeling. And will go away from the cities, waiting for the awakening…Travelers go in search of hospitality in the sunny villages and in the slums of immensity. And they fall asleep over the pillows of the earth. Stranger, if you are looking for the unfathomable dimension, you will find it outside the city, at the end of the road.”

In one of the pages of my notebook I write: Nature is welcoming, with its rules of course, but it is first and foremost selfless. What I am exploring is not only a physical place but also my emotional interior. I am enriching myself. I don’t know where this will take me but it is a long journey that I want to live. […] I feel fulfilled; I am happy and I am really living. Oh, I am so proud of my dogs, despite their limitations – they showed great dignity in facing INSPIRE. Here, in this blessed nature, the superfluous loose its importance: it is rarefied to nothing. If I turn off the front light, I am plunged into total darkness. The full moon of the past few nights is only a memory, and with the sky covered by a veil of clouds the night embraces us. What will become of me?

To you, who are reading these words, I wish you to let yourself get carried away by the current, be inspired by nature and inhale the beauties that Mother Earth has in store for each of us.

How nice it would be to return to a simpler life, wouldn’t it?

Aknowledgements

INSPIRE Associazone Culturale Jaranga’s Expedition 2025

. A big thank you to Nicole and Niklas – In I Norden – for their friendship and the logistic support. Their house has been the perfect place to prepare the dogs and myself for INSPIRE. Moreover, they took great care of little Kaufiaq during the two weeks I was away. Niklas also came to see us for a coffe by the fire one night and brought me extra alcohol and dog food.

. Thanks to all the members of our Associazione Culturale Jaranga for their warm support.

. Thanks to who made a donation for INSPIRE: Ati Gas, Ristorante Bar IL CAVALLINO di Vezza d’Oglio, and Alessandro L.

. A sincere thank you to Erika, Erik and their family, especially little Lovisa who made me a beautiful drawing, for the hospitality we received during the expedition and the affection shown to my dogs and me.

. A sincere thank you to Erica and Tom who welcomed us in their home (B&B Yermikay) where I also had the chance to meet extraordinary people: Ilonka, Josè, Paul and their sled dogs.

. Thanks to our vet Dr. Claudio Gianquinto, who has been caring of my dogs for ten years . Also, thank you to Dr.ssa Giorgia Casagrande for the precious advices and for being very close to us during INSPIRE.

. Thanks to my personal Partners who have being supporting me over these years and believe in my project.

. Thanks to my family and the person I love.

The names of our supporting members and those who gave their contribution to INSPIRE have been carved on a wooden board which was left on the last lake we crossed along our way to the North.